Clean Cuisine, Messy Service

The Atrium features a full bar, but its nonalcoholic selection of beverages lacks the sort of drinks you'd expect to find at a spa: ginseng sodas, fresh fruit juices, et cetera. Just another missed detail. Management needs to tend to the restaurant's numerous glitches, not only because St. John's promising cuisine deserves a better forum, but because nerve-wracking service undermines the monklike serenity of the Atrium's lovely setting. Maybe one of the masseurs can be recruited to help out in the dining room. They're not only trained in pampering guests, but they might also be able to work out some of the Atrium's kinks.

The Atrium
Doral Golf Resort and Spa, 8755 NW 36th St; 305-392-4899. Breakfast daily from 7:00 till 10:00 a.m., lunch from 11:30 a.m till 2:00 p.m., and dinner from 6:00 till 10:00 p.m.

Steamed oysters $9.50
Tea- smoked sugar cane chicken breast $18.00
Chinese barbecue strip steak $24.00
Caribbean grouper en papillote $22.00
Royal croquanti $6.00

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