From Russia Without Guile

Entrees were uniformly garnished by roasted potato wedges, other vegetables sauteed in a slightly sweet soy sauce, and roasted plum tomatoes. All in all you're looking at a lot of food. Just as well, because the dessert selection is limited to familiar items such as flan and cheesecake. Not a Russian pastry in sight and no samovars of tea to wash down the meal. These oversights might be due to owner Armani's reluctance to identify Zhivago's as strictly Russian. But the way I figure, we're lucky he even admits he owns the place.

Zhivago's (at Cabaret on Collins)
17001 Collins Ave, North Miami Beach; 305-949-0711. Dinner Wednesday -- Sunday 5:00 p.m. till midnight.