Really Bad to the Bone

Chicken turned out to be the pick of the menagerie. Reynolds cooks only breasts, but these were skin-on, bone-in beauties, plump and juicy. The slippery skin, easily peeled off for a healthier meal, had been treated with herbs and garlic, a redolence that had soaked into the white meat as well. Order two breasts with side dishes and toast as a dinner (the "chick"); at $7.99, this is a bargain. Here the lack of sauce didn't hurt.

Desserts aren't listed on the menu and weren't volunteered by our unenthusiastic waitress, who got vaguely friendlier only when it came time to give us the bill. (In fact, the staff had already put the chairs on the tables and turned the sign around to "closed" by the time we'd started thinking about sweets, though there was still fifteen minutes to go until the restaurant's nine o'clock shuttering time). We did spot one staffer eating what appeared to be Jell-O with whipped cream, a far from enticing choice anyway, so we couldn't bring ourselves to be too disappointed. We ripped open our moist towelettes instead, dismayed but not surprised to find them as dry as the ribs.

Reynolds is one of the only sit-down restaurants on this lonely strip of Krome Avenue, and as such, it's positioned to do very well for itself. The menu markets itself to tourists, welcoming "race fans, rodeo fans, boaters headed to the Florida Keys, hunters, fishermen, and Sunday drivers." But the point is moot if the fare and service don't improve. If the management doesn't care about the place, why should the customers?

Reynolds Rib House
24854 Krome Ave; 246-8866. Lunch and dinner Tuesday -- Saturday from 11:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. Lunch Sunday from 11:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.

The hog
$14.99
The porker
$14.99
Pork sandwich
$4.95
Side dishes (small)
$1.50
Side dishes (large)
$4.50

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