Great Taste, Less Filling

In fact, the whole attentively served meal might have seemed like a pre-Nineties Ocean Drive dream had not the skies opened up, sending Terrace diners scurrying into the well-appointed lobby. Only at this point did waiters become flustered and the restaurant overcrowded. Then too, the bill was something of a rude awakening. The price we pay to pamper the palate. As Steve Martin said in L.A. Story as he gazed at a plate of artfully arranged tidbits: "I'm done already and I don't remember eating."

Twelve Twenty
(in the Tides) 1220 Ocean Dr, Miami Beach; 604-5130. Dinner daily from 6:00 to 11:00 p.m; Friday and Saturday until midnight.

Parsley risotto
Crabmeat napoleon
Pan-fried scallops
Roasted lamb chop
Apple tart

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