Taiwan On

In a gourmet Chinese restaurant, portions are frequently too small, dainty tastes of delicacies that satisfy the palate but not the appetite. Not so here, where generosity seems as much the rule as skill. Stix also offers rich and filling Western desserts (which to some may seem as odd as the French-Italian wine list, a holdover from the Luna days). These sweets are whisked to the table by a trio of waiters who describe each one in minute detail. We chose a refreshingly juicy strawberry shortcake, the white layers accented by butter cream and bright ruby berries. And those disappointed by the lack of Asian-theme last courses might find solace in the black-and-white sauce, shaped like a yin-yang symbol, beneath the chocolate cake, or the cream puffs fashioned into little swans.

Chef O.A. received some attention at his previous place of business, Ming Court, a popular Asian restaurant he ran in Orlando. But that should be nothing compared to what he's bound to get here in Miami, where a dearth of fine-dining Chinese has always distressed fans of the cuisine (me in particular). He can prevaricate about ingredients all he wants. We'll be persistent. We'll be back.

Stix Oriental Grille
11900 Biscayne Blvd, North Miami; 893-7080. Open daily for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and for dinner from 6:00 to 11:00 p.m.

Tai-chi soup (for two)
Beef clay pot
Grilled scallop and dumpling
Peking duck

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