Century Fillage

One of my favorite openers was a glazed quail, a surprisingly meaty bird candied with Kahlua and orange flavors. The Southwest supported the game with a spring onion and corn salad, flavors reiterated in a crumble of jalapeno cornbread. But easily the best appetizer was a stylishly presented roasted corn chowder: Our server brought a spinach-corn flan in a bowl, then tumbled the thick soup around it from a silver gravy boat. The result was a silky flan that rose like a castle in a moat of chunky chowder redolent with sweet potatoes and roast corn.

Partakers of the Revolution should be aware that appetizers, like main plates, tend to be oversize -- and a little overstated. Even the gratis breadsticks and basil-flavored white bean dip served at the beginning of the meal are filling (the breadsticks, flecked with herbs, are more like baguettes). Which is to say: Don't eat so much that you can't order dessert. Chocolate-peanut butter terrine with strawberry coulis and fresh whipped cream was irresistible, soft and nutty triangles accented on the underside by fudgy chocolate and sweetened by the aromatic, fruity compote.

Sloane's background includes stints at Mark's Place and then three popular Miami restaurants that all eventually went (unlike his snapper) belly-up -- Janjo's, where he worked with chef-owner Jan Jorgensen; Starfish, where he took over after chef-partner Kerry Simon left; and Embers, where he came to the rescue as executive chef after the restaurant had been open (and openly criticized) for a couple of months. He'll be returning to Miami on May 5 to demonstrate three of his recipes, including the aforementioned dessert terrine, at Jan Jorgensen's Two Chefs Cooking school (call 663-2100 for more information). Meanwhile, at Revolution 2029, Sloane takes on the role of spin doctor to an entire neighborhood. I daresay he's up to the task.

A silky flan rose like a castle in a moat of chunky chowder redolent with sweet potatoes and roast corn.

Revolution 2029
2029 Harrison St, Hollywood; 954-920-4748.
Lunch Tuesday -- Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. Dinner Sunday and Tuesday -- Thursday from 5:00 to 10:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday until midnight.

Corn chowder
$5.00
Osso buco
$17.00
Whole red snapper
$19.00
Chocolate-peanut butter terrine
$6.00

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