Fear of Flying

Pacific Time is known for its fish, and Pacific Heights will be too. Grilled Florida Keys black grouper Szechuan was dressed in a spicy sauce similar to the one on the mushroom, with an afterkick that flirted with the palate. The delicate flake of the fillet was made more substantial by a pair of tempura sweet potato wedges that had been dipped in batter and fried in hot oil until crisp. Sea bass was excellent as well, a pan-roasted, sake-braised fillet cut in half and served as a "sandwich." The smooth, creamy filling comprised truffles ('tis the season for truffles), celery root, and Yukon gold potato puree. Oven-roasted tomatoes finished the dish with intensity, though this main course in particular left us craving more.

Desserts, done by PT's pastry chef Jennifer Warren, included the famous-by-now-or-at-least-should-be bittersweet chocolate bomb, an individual cake filled with fudgy syrup. I thought this could have used a little more sugar, though. I was far more disappointed by another cake, maple spice, which was stale. And fresh mango -- one side of the fruit cut off the pit and served in the skin -- should either be taken off the menu or spruced up with some sorbet.

Pacific Heights has some of the nitty-gritty stuff to work out, such as waiters who remove wine glasses from the table before they're empty. In short, the two-story restaurant seems still to be rising. But as far as plumbing the potential goes, well, what are heights without a few depths?

Location Info


Pacific Time Restaurant

35 NE 40th St.
Miami, FL 33137

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Midtown/Wynwood/Design District

Costa Rican hearts of palm and leeks
Chinese duck empanaditas
Portobello mushroom steak
Pan-roasted sea bass

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