Noodle bowls, such as the slightly curried Singapore rice noodles, also provided a way to enjoy Southeast Asia in a less filling way. Like angel hair pasta, these thready noodles were wound around chunks of white-meat chicken and red chilies, and tasted mainly of lime.
Yet another satisfying dish was duck and snow pea salad. Crisp greens were striped like a California Cobb salad with lean, shredded duck, sparkling snow peas, shiitake mushrooms, and fried wonton noodles. A plum wine vinaigrette, beautifully balanced, unified the simple ingredients.
Sandwiches (including peanut butter and strawberry jelly!) are yet another alternative; we happily availed ourselves of a hefty ginger-barbecued pork. Loaded with dark hoisin sauce, the three slices of white meat were extremely tasty on a soft sourdough roll. Asian-flavored slaw and cucumber-pear relish rounded out the plate, along with a heap of golden French fries.
The favorite item at our table (and of customers in general, the bartender told us) was neither the most expensive nor the most complicated. Raffles chicken pie was a hefty casserole containing chunks of floured and braised chicken breast meat, shiitake and button mushrooms, and peanut gravy. The lid of the dish was fashioned from shaved slices of white potato, covering the mound of poultry like a pie crust. Rich, rich, rich.
Fortunately, you don't have to be to dine at Indigo. The decor might be tropically glamorous and reminiscent of British-ruled Asia; the attitude of the manager might be outdated (especially for such a young guy); and the food, pan-Asian though it is, might be as unfamiliar to the palate as Singaporean is to the ear. But the prices are for everyone, proving that the only class that rules here is the hungry.