An Embarrassment of Riches

I was thrilled to see a very Spanish-influenced dish, chicharr centsn de conejo, on the entree list ($23.00). Half a rabbit -- tender inside, crisp as fried chicken outside -- was served over a spicy chocolate reduction. Thinner than a Mexican mole, a Spanish chocolate sauce uses dried, partially fermented and roasted cocoa beans rather than grated chocolate, a process that renders the sauce free of cocoa fat. Though we thought the reduction was perfect, we found the rabbit a bit too gamy. Not a dish for everybody, though no doubt most would love the accompanying salad -- a wilted mache tossed with ultraripe avocado, pitted kalamata olives, and a mild, creamy dressing.

The dessert course accounted for the only flaw in service during the evening -- we waited twenty minutes for our waiter to discover the peanut-chocolate pƒ#te we'd ordered wasn't firm enough to serve, and another twenty-five waiting for a substitute -- torrejas y miel ($8.00) A to arrive. The slices of French-toasted brioche topped with peanut ice cream were marvelous, but I won't wait three-quarters of an hour again, even for chocolate. Still, the waitstaff exhibits charm, patience, and knowledge, crucial traits in a restaurant whose menu, written in English and Spanish, could stand some culinary translation.

Interpretation is the key to Yuca II A make of it what you will. We might not have needed another one, but I can't recall the last time need had anything to do with want.

Location Info



501 Lincoln Road
Miami Beach, FL 33139

Category: Bars and Clubs

Region: South Beach

501 Lincoln Rd, Miami Beach; 532-9822. Open Sunday -- Thursday from noon to 11:00; until midnight on Friday and Saturday.

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