Borderline Call

Those hungry enough for two meals can order their food that way -- combinations of tacos, burritos, enchiladas, and tostadas are available from $5.95 (two choices) to $8.95 (five choices). And those barely hungry at all can order a la carte items. We added a chile relleno and a tamale to our meals, both of which were served in separate casserole dishes. Unfortunately neither really appealed to us. The tamale's ground beef was mixed with the cornmeal rather than encased by it, while the chile relleno turned out not to be a stuffed bell pepper but rather the same sliced green chilies we'd sampled in the quesadilla, crowned with melted cheddar.

Cisco's portions are plentiful, so we skipped a filling flan cheesecake and deep-fried ice cream and headed straight for the Kahlua mousse. We should have just skipped, period. Presented in a wine glass, the fat squeeze of chocolate-colored stuff was strangely textured, like soft Styrofoam.

Ten years ago Pruitt and Spangler interfered with natural selection and kept the last surviving Cisco's alive. And while I personally might not have chosen to endorse the Save Cisco's campaign, in some ways -- an all-you-can-eat lunch buffet, happy-hour bargains, those great chips and dips -- I can see why Miami Springs has been supporting their effort all this time.

Location Info

Map

Cisco's Cafe

5911 NW 36th St.
Doral, FL 33166

Category: Restaurant > Mexican

Region: Doral

Side Dish
For me the winter season means a bunch of pesky out-of-town acquaintances looking for hotel and restaurant recommendations. Usually I just list my favorites and hope they're still the best. But this year I have the just-released 1996 Mobil Travel Guide to back me up. Out of 129 restaurants and lodgings nationwide, three Miami eateries -- Pacific Time, Mark's Place, and Chef Allen's -- earned the coveted Four-Star Award; Mayfair House and Doral Golf & Resort Spa won quadruple spangles for hotels. Fodor's, which took over publication of the guide in 1995, revised the star rating system, which had last been evaluated ten years ago. Now even the size of the ice cubes is judged. Criteria for Four-Star restaurants include "the napery is of good quality . . . with no synthetics"; "the manager usually wears a suit"; and "waiters are confident . . . with no pretension or attitude." Oh yeah, and the restaurants "consistently set ambitious goals and achieve them, cordially serving remarkable food in wonderful surroundings.

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