The Accidental Tourist

A double veal chop and rack of lamb were tempting, but the plethora of fish dishes indicated the chef's partiality. We sent back a grilled yellowfin tuna, however: Ordered medium to suit the taste of one of my guests, it revealed a shockingly pink center. We were glad to find the wide, flat steak still succulent and juicy upon its return, despite the fact that the extra fire had burned off a billed honey-ginger barbecue sauce we'd been looking forward to ($17.00).

Ice-cold coffee was the only other glitch in an otherwise pleasantly served meal; it was worth every penny of the automatic fifteen-percent gratuity to see the busboy stick his finger in the cup and announce, "It is cold!"

In keeping with the rest of the menu, wine at the Boulevard is moderately priced, though the low end (under twenty dollars) is limited. The list was in flux when we visited, but the manager was happy to detail for us all of the vintages he had in stock. We wound up with a '92 Chalk Hill ($28), a crisp chardonnay with enough body to stand up to chicken (minus the garlic stuffing) and enough subtlety to complement red snapper.

Location Info

Map

Boulevard Bar & Grill

740 Ocean Drive
Miami Beach, FL 33139

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: South Beach

Judging by its consistent crowd, the Boulevard has become a favorite with residents as well as out-of-towners who want to do the Drive. The chef's local standing is certainly a draw; if not always startling in intensity, his cuisine is clean and simple. Little touches -- bunches of grapes hanging over the edges of the bread basket, for instance -- are homey, welcoming. Boulevard may well be the best on the Drive. But I can't help remembering the dazzle of places like the Colony Bistro right next door; all we saw as we walked past were empty chairs. And I can't help thinking how easy it is for one sun to shine when the others have already set.

Boulevard Bar & Grill
740 Ocean Dr, Miami Beach; 532-9069. Open daily from 7:00 a.m. to midnight.

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