"What really changed surfing was the advent of surf reports," he goes on, shaking his head. "People can call from the comfort of their own bed about 7:15 and know what the surf conditions are, roughly from here to New York to the Bahamas. What that means is if you have the leisure time, the money, and a telephone, you can be a surfer.
"When the group of people who used to congregate down here got together, it was like a tribal thing. People coming together who had a shared basic knowledge, celebrating a weather phenomenon that is unique. You just have a feeling there's surf. You know, like when a really strong cold front comes down through here, and there's that crisp feeling in the air, and the skies are powder blue, and you feel just one or two more notches alive than you did before. And there's waves. There's waves!