Moonlight Smile

South Florida specialties are far better choices. Served with a variety of sauces A key lime butter, tropical fruit or vegetable salsa, toasted almond butter, teriyaki glaze A Doc Graham's renditions of fresh dolphin, swordfish, salmon, snapper, and tuna elevate the kitchen from the minor leagues. We tried snapper and swordfish, both of which were perfectly prepared. The swordfish especially was succulent and juicy, a good-size, enjoyable steak.

Florida resonates in the dessert course, as well. We ordered the "key lime brick," a dense, cheesecakelike version of the traditional pie. Unfortunately the cappuccino was of the instant-machine type, watery and pale. After a sip, we exchanged ours for espresso.

An eerie similarity in the histories of the two Doc Grahams: Both began their new lives with a natural disaster. After graduation Dr. Archibald Graham arrived at his Minnesota hospital only to find it had fallen victim to a disastrous forest fire; he rolled up his sleeves and got to work. Doc Graham's took over the oyster bar that was devastated by Hurricane Andrew. The owners, undoubtedly, were working on the assumption that "If you rebuild it, they will come." And it looks like they were right.