Doo-wah Didier's

Likewise, a grilled veal chop, nearly three inches thick and perfectly cooked, was a filling masterpiece. Flambeed with Calvados, the chop was presented with sliced pommes reinettes and topped with chopped chives and sauteed mushrooms. The sweet, meaty apples, combined with the sharp and pungent apple brandy, were a wonderful complement to the succulent veal. In contrast to such richness, the seafood and pasta dishes -- even the expertly prepared swordfish -- paled.

Dessert, however, was competition. A fabulous apple tarte tatin was an open-face delight, featuring cinnamon-scented halves of fruit layered over smooth caramel and a soft, barely resistant pastry crust. Not having had enough cholesterol for one evening, Dr. B ordered his all-time favorite, strawberries in sabayon, a simple sauce composed of eggs, sugar, and wine he likes to make at home (he cooks, he cleans; he's a Jewish doctor up for grabs). The fat ruby berries were an appropriate contrast to the shell-white veil of sabayon, a finale that, we all agreed, would indeed be tasteful at his (eventual) wedding.

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