Fantastic Voyeur

Ho fun noodles (more commonly known as chow fun) with black-bean paste and beef, a Hong Kong specialty, were as beautifully managed as the chicken. Slices of beef were seared so briefly they were still rare, soft as the wide, flat and slippery noodles that provided the dish's base. A zesty black-bean sauce was perfect for clinging to the slippery noodles.

More New York than South Florida, Club Dynasty certainly has an odd charm to it, one that appeals to me despite -- or maybe because of -- some entertaining idiosyncrasies. A cocktail waitress from the lounge, clad in a black dress that looked more like a shirt, took our drink orders. A singer armed with a keyboard and a gift for mimicry crooned hits by Elton John and Marvin Gaye. And as an alternative to the open kitchen, video monitors transmitted the frenetic wokking to the dining room floor, the mirrored walls doubling the images on the screens. Still, the combination of reflective, well-lighted Eighties decor, video monitors, and staring waitstaff was ultimately discomfiting.

Fed up with feeling all those eyes on us, we did some staring of our own as we waited outside for the valet to bring our car around -- at a couple who walked in and then walked right out, apparently unimpressed by the lounge-lizard atmosphere that greets diners at the door. Had the valet taken a little longer, we would have stopped them and assured them that Club Dynasty is well worth a closer look.

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