Zeus Would Not Be Pleased

Greek House Restaurant

My main course of imam baldi, a baked half of eggplant stuffed with a meager sprinkle of feta and cooked with onions and tomato sauce, failed as well. Fruity olive oil and nutmeg flavors obscured even the onions. The tomato sauce, which might have lent a pleasant acidic note, had either dried in the oven or had not been added. Side dishes of sauteed broccoli and asparagus with bacon were so saturated with salt they might have crystallized if left to their own devices. Other side-dish options of roasted potatoes, roasted tomatoes, rice pilaf, and stuffed mushrooms (the last carrying enough garlic for the spineless tzatziki), fared almost as badly.

Then came the lamb chops. Suffice it to say the poor animal had been slaughtered twice -- first by the butcher, then by the chef.

We all agreed the giovetsi, a casserole of braised beef and orzo (a small, oval-shaped pasta) in a tomato-and-wine sauce, lent a little promise to the meal. Tender strips of beef generously intertwined with pasta in a flavorful, tangy sauce. If the kitchen, boosted by proper supplies and guidance, could lift its other preparations to the level of the giovetsi, Greek House might stand a chance of developing a loyal clientele. After all, curtains rise as well as fall. Which direction this one goes will depend less on the hips -- and hype -- of the belly dancer than on the quality of the food.

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