Get Stoned for Dinner

Dolphin, an uninspired choice for catch of the day, didn't stand up well to stone. But like an active lava flow, the menu is in movement, and a variety of fish are being explored. The salmon may be better at holding your attention; it is excellent grilled, as barbecue enthusiasts will attest.

Appetizers, the only menu items not served on Semiramis, are also in transition. A good thing, too, as the exotic shrimp seemed no more interesting than a mayonnaise-based salad dressing with a touch of curry. Other starters, such as the lobster vol-au-vent, had already been deleted. But two extremely pleasant surprises were the forestier mushroom escargot, a delicious display of garlic-topped snails and woodsy mushrooms, and an excellent lobster bisque. Perhaps Fernando Echeverri, the new chef imported from New York City, can be persuaded to keep these on the menu as he undertakes his anticipated innovations.

And for those who simply must have it, the Semirami stone will at some point be for sale. Throw away those electric woks and sandwich makers; there's a new kitchen catch in town. The price, though, will likely rival that of gourmet skillets such as those made by Grand Cuisine; in Aruba the stones sell for $90, duty-free. Of course, a carrying case, special handling tongs, and instructional brochure will be included. Otherwise, we might prepare nothing more than a good stone soup.

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