Signature Blues

The Oriental dumplings ($3.75), however, in which I placed my faith for a fulfilling evening, were light as a tremolo and filled with seasoned vegetables that still held a hint of their individual flavors and textures. Accompanied by a subtle garlic-lime sauce, this three-piece dish best suited my tastes. The grilled sausage with Japanese mustard ($2.50) was also an able preparation, as smoky and well presented as the riffs produced by the band. Compared with the kamikaze salad ($4.75) -- a conch-and-cabbage mixture reminiscent of the Korean kim chee and as spicy as its name suggests -- the steamier selections were clearly superior.

In general, sticking to what's hot temperature-wise may be a good guideline to follow. The fish selections, particularly the broiled tuna with garlic-walnut sauce ($13.75), the standard tempura ($12.95), and teriyakis (for chicken, $11.50, steak and salmon $14.95) all satisfy the light eater with a penchant for pocket poverty -- the prices are bigger than the portions, and only cash is an acceptable form of payment. Served with a salad, a choice of white or brown rice, and a healthy helping of the blues, I considered the purchase of dinner more like a cover charge, and worth it.

SUSHI BLUES CAFE 1836 S. Young Circle, Hollywood, 929-9560. Open Monday -- Thursday from 6:00 p.m. to midnight, Friday and Saturday from 6:00 p.m. to 2:00 a.m. Closed Sundays.

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