Kulcha Club

Some highlights: Among the chicken entrees, my "butter chicken" -- essentially a boneless bird cooked in the tandoori style in a curried fresh tomato sauce with hints of clarified butter and cream ($9.95) -- was delectable. An omnivorous friend well accustomed to Kebab's generous portions ordered the finest dish of the evening, Madras-style lamb chunks with fresh tomatoes in a sauce blazing with vegetable and garam masala flavor ($10.50). The breads were predictably fine, the unleaved nan ($1.50) and in particular Northern India's onion-and-coriander-filled kulcha ($3.25), melted like rendered butter. The lentil dal ($6.25) for once wasn't the overcooked goo it can be elsewhere; the beans were perfectly cooked and seasoned, and made me wish for the belly of a maharajah to further investigate Kebab's eleven other vegetable curries. For me the very best was a vegetable biryani ($9.25), whose moist magnificence and overwhelming blend of basmati rice, onions, tomatoes, nuts, and herbs was a fitting climax to a very satisfying cultural reconnaissance tour of India.

Desserts do not rise above Everest at Kebab, but two excellent sweets -- gulab jamun, sweet pastry in rosewater-flavored syrup ($2), and homemade mango ice cream ($2.50) -- were all this habitually contentious critic could consume at evening's end. With India's finest fare making its way down an insatiable gullet like mine, there was no room for a third dessert. In all probability, India's creamy kulfi would have started to taste like cool feet.

KEBAB INDIAN RESTAURANT 514 NE 167th St, North Miami; 940-6309. Open Monday -- Thursday from 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Closed Sunday.

Location Info

Map

Kebab Indian Restaurant

514 NE 167th St.
North Miami, FL 33162

Category: Restaurant > Italian

Region: Aventura/North Miami Beach

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