No Spice? Not Nice

Different desserts are offered daily, and on the night we visited, I passed up flan and strawberry mousse cake in favor of the Oreo cookie cheesecake, which proved to be an excellent choice. The flavors of the bittersweet chocolate and the cheese complemented each other perfectly, and the crumbled-cookie crust was soft rather than crunchy, a texture that suited the consistency of the dessert. My dining companion drank his after-dinner sweet in the form of one of Margarita's specialty coffees. Called "Mexican Coffee," his $2.95 java was spiked with Kahlua, brandy, and whipped cream, and he found it good to the last bone-warming drop.

If it's a taste of Mexicana you're craving, Margarita's is well worth a try. The tile-and-brick, mission-style setting and lighted cactus garden create an attractive, relaxing ambiance, and with upbeat Mexican tunes swirling about the room, the restaurant's slogan - "Mucho Fun...Poco Dinero" - is right on the mark.

MARGARITA'S MEXICAN CANTINA 3850 SW 8th St, Coral Gables; 447-0730. Hours: Monday - Saturday from 11:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m.