No Dane, No Gain

Desserts appear to be making a comeback in Miami, and Tivoli gives diners plenty of options. According to the waiter, the array changes from day to day, and he immediately rattled off more than a dozen sweets. Scandinavians are known for some fabulous, exotic desserts, such as red-fruit pudding - a cold fruit soup served with cream - and the Danes, in particular, are noted for apple confections. At Tivoli, however, we heard mostly about chocolate - chocolate ecstasy, chocolate chip cheesecake, a chocolate-pecan concoction - and thanks to the large crudites before the meal, we were too full for such heavy treats. (The menu does mention a crepe dessert served gratis, Monday through Thursday, except during holiday weeks.)

While I was disappointed that Tivoli does little in the way of Danish cuisine, I must credit them with well-prepared continental food and some of the most outstanding hospitality - not one but two complimentary dishes - between here and Copenhagen.

3439 NE 163rd St, N Miami Beach, 945-7080. Hours: Sunday - Thursday from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday from 5:30 to 10:30 p.m.

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