The Raw and the Cooked

Overall, Tani Guchi's Place sustained its high standards right through dessert, a course eschewed by many Japanese restaurants. With the American sweet tooth in mind, they offer fruit plates (featuring combinations of pineapple, grapes, and oranges) and exotic ice cream flavors such as green tea, ginger, and azuki (red bean). The line of people waiting to be seated made us feel too guilty to order dessert, and Carole Taniguchi (who continuously traversed the room, checking on her customers) seemed relieved when we declined. She was obviously anxious to accommodate those waiting outside, and happily informed us that a rabbi and his family were next in line for our table. Oblivious to the crowd, Terry Taniguchi stood behind the small sushi bar, steadily shaping the tidbits that have all Miami beating a path to the door.

TANI GUCHI'S PLACE
2224 NE 123rd St; 892-6744. Hours: Lunch Monday - Saturday from noon to 2:30 p.m.; dinner Monday - Saturday from 6:00 to 11:00 p.m., and Sunday from 4:00 to 9:00 p.m.